Monday, 30 March 2015
New blogpost (Solar Eclipse 20-03-2015 Doncaster) has been published on My Emergency Preparedness Blog
Photo’s taken by the boys using a Canon 12mp camera with a Baader film filter / No filter when cloudy / Green welding glass . They had the morning off school as their school was not going out…
Solar Eclipse 20-03-2015 Doncaster
http://bit.ly/1CFfdLc
#preppertalk
New post (Szkolenie Preppers - LIny, Węzły i różne triki) has been published on My Emergency Preparedness Blog
Improwizowane techniki ewakuacji. Improwizowane metody dostępu linowego. Najbardziej przydatne węzły dla Preppers.a Triki oraz patenty z linami, taśmami oraz paskami. Zapraszamy na szkolenie.
Szkolenie Preppers - LIny, Węzły i różne triki
http://bit.ly/1CFf1vp
#preppers
Look at my new blogpost - 4 Survival Prepping Tips EVERY Prepper Should Know!
Get Your Free Prepping Crash Course… http://guidetoprepping.com/crash Often people don’t like to think about disaster but if you want to be safe AND survive a disaster than it’s absolutely…
4 Survival Prepping Tips EVERY Prepper Should Know!
http://bit.ly/1CFeGsB
#survivalist
Look at my new article - Five How-To-Do-It Articles For Defending Your Home And Retreat Against Looters, and Jackbooted Thugs
1. A Green Beret’s Guide To Low-Budget Home-Defense Techniques 101: “Early-Warning Systems and Fortifications†: “This article is the first in a series that covers hardening your home and some easy, low-budget alternatives for early-warning systems and fortifications. For all the prior service members (especially 11-Bravos), parts of this will be basic: this info is especially for those who haven’t been in the military to introduce them to some fundamentals. Please bear with me and do not feel insulted.”
2. M.D. Creekmore’s Defensive Strategies for Home and Retreat…
Five How-To-Do-It Articles For Defending Your Home And Retreat Against Looters, and Jackbooted Thugs
http://bit.ly/1xujrF5
#preppernews
New blogpost (How to Set a Broken Bone or Treat a Dislocated Joint) has been published on My Emergency Preparedness Blog
The X-ray owner, Tim Snell, says this injury didn’t hurt as much as you’d think. “I can’t claim that the process of ‘popping it back in’ didn’t hurt though,” he wrote on Flickr, where he shared the X-ray. “What i thought would be a 5 second ‘click’ ended up taking 3 professionals over 10 minutes of tugging, twisting and pulling to get the little bugger back in place. it’s a good job i was pumped full of laughing gas.” (“Snap My Fingers,” shared via CC BY-ND 2.0.)
Broken bones and dislocated joints are pretty common injuries, and I have several posts on how to treat them in an emergency. But many people have asked specifically how to “set†a bone, meaning, I presume, how to straighten a broken arm, leg, finger, or toe if it is crooked.
The answer is most of the time, you should do nothing for a crooked bone or displaced joint other than splint it as-is until you can get to a doctor. Trying to move it around is likely to cause more damage.
But there are some injuries when, indeed, you may want to take that chance and try to set (straighten) the bone or put the joint back into place. And, of course, there’s always a chance you’re in a situation where expert help is many days away.
In those cases, the key to treatment is to apply traction—properly.
How to Apply Traction Properly
Basically medical traction involves pulling on a bone. So, you grab the end and pull. Easy? Well …
- First, make sure you have a good grip because you’re going to have to pull hard and usually for several seconds, even minutes. A glove or cloth can help.
- Next, know that you must pull in the same directional plane as the bone. In other words, make sure you’re not angling it and putting pressure or torque on the fractured area. Otherwise you could damage the area a lot more.
- Remember not to jerk. Begin with a slow pull, and gradually pull harder and harder and, sometimes, harder.
>> Special traction for shoulder dislocations: Click here for how to put a shoulder back into place.
What Traction Does
With a break or dislocation, the muscles perceive the injury and contract, I guess to try to protect the bone. But this contraction and pull can also make the bone more crooked, and it will always make it harder to put the bone back into place.
With traction, we’re attempting to stretch those muscles so they give enough slack that the bone can be straightened, or so the ends of dislocated bones have enough space between them to pop back into place.
The best way to get the stretch is to start slow and kind of sneak up on the muscle, in essence letting it know you’re not there to hurt it. Then, gradually pull harder. In the end, you may have to pull really hard, but never jerk—which will only scare the muscle into contracting more.
Step 2: Splint
If there’s a fracture, have someone splint the bone in place before you let go of the traction, to lessen the chance of the bone moving.
With a dislocated joint, you can let go after it’s back in place and then splint it. In this case, the splint isn’t to keep the bones in place as much as to protect the joint. A dislocated joint is usually caused by a sudden jerk or hit that stretches or tears ligaments and tendons, which allows the bone to pop out of place. Then, very quickly, the muscles are back contracting, and the out-of-place bone is stuck but would dearly love to get back to its normal position. If you can stretch out those muscles so the end of the one bone is beyond the end of the other, it will usually gladly pop back into place and stay there. A splint allows protection and immobilization for the tendons and ligaments to heal.
When Not Do It Yourself
Any time you manipulate or move an injured part of your body you risk further injury. An experienced health care provider is less likely to cause injury and also to know when and how much straightening needs to be done. In addition, a little (or lot) of anesthesia can go a long way in allowing the muscles to relax and making it easier to put the bone back into place (not to mention alleviating the pain). So, in the great majority of the time, it’s best to splint the injury as-is and wait on an expert.
When to Consider Trying Traction
Consider trying traction for any of the following reasons:
- To take pressure off a nerve. If the fingers or toes distal to (on the far end of) the break or dislocation are numb, there could be pressure on the nerve. In general this could wait for maybe even a day to be relieved before there’s irreversible nerve damage.
- To take pressure off an artery. If fingers or toes distal to the break are blue or if you can’t find a pulse, taking the pressure off the artery within a few hours could save further major damage to the area not getting the blood.
- To stop bleeding. A big, major artery lies next to femur (thighbone) and can be damaged with a break to the bone. In some cases, bleeding can be life threatening. Quite a bit of blood loss may occur even before the thigh starts swelling. Because the artery is so deep, applying direct pressure or even a tourniquet may not be enough. Applying traction may not only straighten the bone but allow the big muscles around the artery to better compress the area and decrease or stop the bleeding. This will need to be continued by then applying a traction splint. But that’s for another post.
- Because help isn’t coming. If expert help is many days away, not getting a bone back in proper position could permanently limit the function of that bone. For instance, you’re never going to be able to move a dislocated joint. A crooked bone may be more of a judgment call. In general, if it’s not exactly straight that may be more of a long-term cosmetic issue than how it might function.
Sometimes, the only way to get perfect alignment is with surgical pins and plates—something you’d never try on your own.
Have you ever had a crooked broken bone (displaced fracture) or dislocated joint? What did you do?
How to Set a Broken Bone or Treat a Dislocated Joint
http://bit.ly/1EVZKmQ
#preppers
Look at my new post - Letter Re: Choices, Choices, Choices
HJL,
I would like to weigh in on the article of: Choices, Choices, Choices – Part 1, by K.C.
First thing I want to mention is by no way am I an expert in the field of firearms and all this is only my opinion and what I believe will work for me.
A firearm is a tool; many companies make tools, and people have their particular choices in what they like. For power tools, some like Milwaukee, Black & Decker, Ryobi, and so forth. For mechanics tools, some like Sears Craftsman, Snap-on, Kolbalt, and others. What it all boils down to is that when you need a screw driver, it doesn’t matter how many wrenches you have, because they will just not do the job.
In firearms, what is it you wish to have the tool do? If it’s defending your property and you have a field of view around a 1000 yards, then you may want something in the 50 cal range to start thinning out the herd as they approach, but something in the 30-06 or .308 range will also work nicely, such as a Winchester model 70 or an M1A. When shooting at a long distance, having a high capacity mag is not as important as it is when the herd is closer. In that case, having something that is accurate is what’s important.
If defending your property and you have a field of view around a 500 yards, then a 50 cal would be the wrong tool, but the 30-06 or .308 will really come into their comfort zone. Something like the AK47 or AR15 is also a nice choice.
If defending your property and you have a field of view of less than a 100 yards, the 30-06 or .308 may be too big for the job, but the AK47 or AR15 is still right at home. Something that also starts to come into play would be a 12 Ga pump shotgun with .00 buck, such as the Remington 870.
If you’re into the trenches or they have made it into your home, then the 12 Ga is still a great choice, if you have the shortened stock. However, nowt now having a pistol in 9mm, .40, or .45 has come into play.
One of the things I look at is the distance. I really do not care if I kill the zombie or not. My intention would be to just stop them from doing what they are doing, which is coming after me. If I wound someone and it stops them, I’m a happy camper. Also wounding makes it harder for the group of them because they have to use their resources to keep the person alive, but he is still not my problem. If someone makes it into my home, then killing is the preferred choice.
In the home, will a Glock in .45 do any better than a Colt .45? Well, will a Milwaukee drill a 1/2-inch hole in wood better than a Ryobi? Which brand you choose will be what you think feels comfortable and will do the job you need it to do.
Something I would like readers to consider is the Winchester 30-30. It’s the gun that won the West and did so by taking down cougars, buffalo, and grizzlies. It’s light, doesn’t have much of a kick, will do well out to 100 yards, and is also short enough for inside the home.
For personal carry, in the winter when I’m wearing more clothes, I like my .40 cal. In the summer, when I’m in shorts and a tee shirt, my .380 fits nicely in my pocket. If I’m attacked in the parking lot and I have my .380, will it kill the zombie? Maybe or maybe not, but I believe it will stop him from continuing his attack.
As it’s been said, when the SHTF the best firearm in the world is the one you have in your hand at the time.
P.S. in VA
Letter Re: Choices, Choices, Choices
http://bit.ly/1EVZp3N
#shtf
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